Swell Matrix

Area Forecast Discussion

National Weather Service San Francisco CA

548 pm PDT Sun Sep 6 2026

Short Term

, Issued at 1143 AM PDT Sun Sep 6 2026 (This afternoon through Monday)

Hazardous conditions at Pacific Coast beaches continues to be the weather headline through Monday. Long period southerly swell from distant Hurricane Marie will result in an increased risk for sneaker waves and strong rip currents with breaking waves up to 10 feet. Stay off the beach and remain out of the water to mitigate your risk. Minor coastal flooding will be possible during high tide this evening for bayshore locations along the San Pablo Bay in Marin County. Today will be the last day of well below normal temperatures before the warming and drying trend kicks off Monday. The marine layer continues to struggle to come back in full force with low confidence in it doing so through Monday and even into the long term forecast.

Long Term

..issued at 1143 AM PDT Sun Sep 6 2026 (Monday night through next Saturday)

Anomalously high heights from upper-level ridging across the Desert Southwest will nose in from the east on Tuesday, peaking Wednesday into Thursday. The forecast has trended significantly warmer and drier. The reason being an upper-level shortwave trough will dig well of the West Coast and join forces with Post-Tropical Cyclone Marie and become a cutoff low. The overall weakness of the low and its independence from the jet stream will give the ridge precedence over the forecast as its allowed to join forces with ridging over the Northeastern Pacific Ocean. A weaker than normal sea breeze circulation will mean that even the coast will be impacted due to limited onshore flow and thus marine layer formation. There is now widespread moderate to areas of major HeatRisk, meaning that at this point a Heat Advisory would be needed for most of the area Wednesday and Thursday. Temperatures will be 10 to 15 degrees above normal and likely feel worse due to us coming off the heels of well below normal temperatures. To put this upcoming event into context, 850 mb temperatures and 500 mb heights will be between the 90th percentile and record values. Needless to say, rain chances from remnant tropical moisture have been wiped out. An approaching upper-level trough will tamp down the ridge Friday into next weekend, cooling temperatures to near normal and increasing onshore flow.

Aviation

(00z TAFS) Issued at 548 PM PDT Sun Sep 6 2026

Widespread VFR with moderate onshore breezes continue through the evening as winds ease around sunset. Overnight, a weak offshore flow will persist through late Monday morning, thereby confining the marine layer to the coast. The TAF advertises the potential for SCT decks as confidence remains low on the development of BKN ceilings across the Bay Area terminals. Medium confidence on IFR-MVFR ceilings at coastal sites. Any ceiling that develops will be short- lived as a moderate onshore flow returns to all terminals by early Monday afternoon.

Vicinity of SFO, Moderate onshore breezes with gusts around 25 kt continues into the evening. Winds become gentle southwest to southerly breezes overnight as the weak offshore flow reaches the Bay. This weak offshore flow is expected to mix out any developing stratus, therefore VFR is advertised through the TAF period since confidence remains low on the development of MVFR ceilings. If ceilings do develop, they are expected to scatter out by Monday mid- morning as a moderate northwest breeze settles in.

SFO Bridge Approach, Similar to SFO.

Monterey Bay Terminals, VFR as moderate onshore breezes ease around sunset. Winds become gentle southerly breezes early Monday morning with medium confidence on the development of IFR ceilings. Stratus is expected to scatter out by late Monday morning as the onshore breeze regains dominance.

Marine

(today through Friday) Issued at 1045 AM PDT Sun Sep 6 2026

Northerly winds gradually strengthen today from moderate to fresh with strong gusts becoming more widespread. Locally stronger gusts are expected within the Monterey Bay, coastal jet regions, and within the Golden Gate channel. Winds diminish everywhere except the far northern outer waters by late Monday with weaker winds to prevail through the rest of the week. Long period southerly swell associated with tropical activity in the Eastern Pacific will continue to impact the coastal waters into next week.

Beaches

Issued at 538 PM PDT Sat Sep 5 2026

A Beach Hazards Statement is in effect through Labor Day as the swell from tropical cyclones Marie and Karina reach the coast. Waves from these cyclones will travel over 1,000 miles in all directions, gradually flattening out to low amplitude, but long period swell. These waves aren't very intimidating if you're on a boat in the open ocean, but the long period allows them to push much farther up the beach. Long period swell always increases the chance for sneaker waves, but that's particularly true this weekend since there are 2 different sets of southerly swell, and their energy will periodically combine. In addition to sneaker waves, expect strong rip currents and breaking waves up to 10 ft. As this is a holiday weekend and the weather is otherwise pretty nice, the exposure to the risk is high. Avoid the water if you're not an expert swimmer. If caught in a rip current, swim parallel to shore until you stop feeling the pull. Even on the beach, be prepared for sneaker waves this weekend and never turn your back on the ocean.

Watches, Warnings, Advisories

Ca, Beach Hazards Statement through Monday evening for CAZ006-505- 509-529-530.

PZ, Small Craft Advisory until 9 PM PDT this evening for Mry Bay.

Small Craft Advisory until 3 AM PDT Monday for Pigeon Pt to Pt Pinos 0-10 nm-Pt Arena to Pt Reyes 0-10 nm-Pt Pinos to Pt Piedras Blancas 0-10 nm.

Small Craft Advisory from 9 PM this evening to 9 AM PDT Monday for Pt Arena to Pt Reyes 10-60 NM.

Visit this site often? Consider supporting us with a $10 contribution.
Learn more